
It started with a pamphlet. I asked a man that morning if he knew of a climbing route called cmd arĂȘte. The only reason I knew of that route was from a pamphlet that caught my eye the night before. Climbing Ben Nevis? It asked. Why yes i was! I pulled the pamphlet from its clear plastic holder attached to the wall of the hostel and flipped it over. It described 3 routes. The first was the pony track. I was immediately turned off by the name. As I read on I dismissed the route after discovering it was the easiest and most popular tourist track up to the summit. Boring! The second was called cmd arĂȘte and was described as a more challenging ascent climbing 2 peaks with a fair amount of exposure and a guide was recommended. Interesting. I read on to the third route. The north face. Extreme exposure and a guide and technical rock climbing gear is required. Damn. I had none of those things. That's when I settled on the second. After deciding I asked the man at the reception desk if he could tell me the way. He had never heard of that route. I was a little confused as to how he made it as the receptionist of a hostel on the foot of a mountain that he didn't know everything about. I asked about the north face simply for the sake of curiosity and he laughed a patronising laugh and shook his head. "Please don't go to the north face" he said. Well that was helpful! I wasn't going to settle for the pony track so that morning I looked at the man making breakfast near me. He looked like he knew what he was doing. He was tall, towering over me in waterproof climbing gear and expensive looking hiking boots. Yes he'd know about the cmd route. I asked him and he smiled down at me surprised and slightly impressed. He wasn't like the man at reception. His smile was warm and genuine. "Yes I know it," he responded.
"Is it straightforward and clearly marked?" I pressed hoping for more information. I am famous for getting lost and have possibly the worst sense of direction known to man.
"Not really," he said with a laugh. He could see my disappointment and to remedy it he continued "my mate and I are going around the north face." My eyes lit up. The north face! "You can tag along and we'll show you the way to cmd if you'd like." I wasn't expecting such an offer and was thrilled to take it. I happily accepted and sat down with them as they finished their breakfast. I learned the tall man with the warm smile was named Nigel and his friend, shorter thin and bald was named Darren. Darren was delightfully sarcastic and their banter told me a lot about their friendship. They told me that they'd been planning to do the climb they were doing that day for years. It was called Tower Ridge first climbing Douglas Boulder. Their excitement was clear and it was contagious. They told me the route I had chosen is excellent so I couldn't wait to get going.
We set off shortly after breakfast and I found myself easily getting along with Darren and Nigel. They made me feel comfortable and welcome and we found things to talk about easily. They both had many years of rock climbing experience and have climbed all over Scotland and England. I was really impressed with their stories. The walk was fairly easy for the first hour or so involving lots of stone steps that we took slowly. They warned me ahead of time that they'd be pacing themselves. At first I wanted to go faster but at the end of the day I was glad we went the pace we did.
When we started to approach the north face of the mountain Nigel realized that we past the turn for the route I was meant to go on. He said I had three options. The first would be to back track and go back to where the path split. Option two would be to cut through and climb up the side of the mountain that would involve an hour of extreme huffing and puffing but it would be a do able climb. The third option he paused before proposing that I tag along with them. Darren smiled wickedly at the idea and they looked at me expectantly. Darren said I could use his harness and helmet. I was immediately struck with nerves. I'd never been rock climbing aside from a few times on an indoor wall. This was a route seasoned climbers had been planning to do for years. They obviously thought I was capable or they wouldn't have extended the offer right? I looked back at the other route. It looked long, tedious, and lonely. I looked at the two smiling gentlemen with their packs full of climbing gear and ropes dangling off the sides. Then I looked up to tower ridge. The sheer cliff face loomed over me eerily with mist swirling around the edges of rock.
My lips spoke before my brain caught up. "I'll come with you guys!"
They smiled happily and we were on our way. It was one of those decisions that seemed like a bad idea but at the same time I think I knew I'd regret it if I hadn't stepped out of my comfort zone.
A few hours later I found myself hanging from the side of the cliff, geared up in a harness with Nigel 40 feet or so above me encouraging me onward. My legs were starting to shake and I had that heavy feeling in the pit of my stomach. Nothing could happen if I was harnessed in right? At least that's what Darren was reminding me as I panicked slightly not knowing where I could put my foot next. My hands gripped tightly and I looked around desperately. Darren spoke words of encouragement from below and I mustered all the courage I had and reached my leg high into the only feasible foothold I could find and pulled myself up.
After climbing Douglas Boulder my nerves started to calm. The trickiest parts of the climb were in the beginning and after I got past them I felt like I could do anything. I started to climb faster and more confidently.

Tower ridge was a long climb but was exciting the whole way to the summit. At one point we had to abseil down to a ledge about 20 feet below to climb back up. Darren, ever the adrenaline junky, decided to jump the ten foot gap instead. We were around 2,000 feet high at that point with nothing but a small ledge below before dropping down sheer cliff. I watched in amazement and my stomach did flips as he steadied himself before the jump. I felt a wave of relief when he landed successfully on the other side. I admired his bravery! The rest of the way was mainly scrambling but we stayed roped up just to be safe.
As we neared the top we climbed over the clouds that were settled around us for most of the climb. I knew we were close since we were actually above the clouds. We were very high up!
It wasn't much longer before we reached the summit. There was something so satisfying about reaching the top of the highest mountain in the UK by climbing up the side of the cliff rather than walking the endlessly winding gentle tourist path. We were well above the clouds at the top and the feeling of accomplishment washed over me. I had just rock climbed Ben Nevis. My first time rock climbing and I did a challenging route on the highest mountain in the entire United Kingdom. Not too shabby!





































